Two years ago, Holy week was in Mostar. Interesting services, very revealing modifications in the rubrics. But it's difficult to point out the borderline idolatry to a roomful of people who have just survived a religious war. There is some comfort in the obviousness of such things, and with years of peacetime, the seeds in the practices will lead them back to a more reflective understanding, I think.
The folks from whom I was renting (a rather difficult) apartment told me that there was a Good Friday service at the mountaintop cross, so on that morning, I walked over to the Franciscan church at the base of the hill, had some coffee, and made my ascent. Extremely difficult and somewhat dangerous climb -- the path had just been reopened after de-mining. Finally, I made it to the top, a bit perplexed that I was apparently one of very few people climbing the mountain. At the top, others appeared, and then a huge crowd, all of whom had walked up the paved road on the other side. A very interesting afternoon.
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And then, last year:
https://defrydrychowski.wordpress.com/2025/04/19/a-balkan-triduum-i-ii/
https://defrydrychowski.wordpress.com/2025/04/19/a-balkan-triduum-iii/
Of this year... it is best to remain silent. Next year in a holy land.