From all appearances, the city is populated entirely by marihuana-smoking greed machines and tourists. Apparently, I'm two centuries too late for the kind of place I was looking for. Already checking the timetables for departures on the Celestial Railroad (Hawthorne).
Despising for you this city, I turn my back.
There is a world elsewhere.
Bosnia or Serbia is the watchword, I think. Both populated by very civilized folks who are highly attuned to the traditions of hospitality, but I don't think I awaken any particular affinities -- merely interesting places in Europe in which I know that I can work and think.