Twitmachine inaccessible again.
Wandered to the old city, which is also apparently the new city, and
quite a walk from the rooms. Old Roman ampitheatre, basically just dug
out of the silt, nothing to distance you from the relic of the time.
Possible to walk through the tunnels, and out into the arena. Half of
the structure is preserved, the other half, the downhill half, which
presumably therefore had all of the pens and machinery, only survives at
the basement level.
Seafront open, recently developed, excellent walking quay.
Socialist statues. Seems to be more typical of socialist countries to
make statues of young heroes. Kouroi of righteousness. The outpost of
Venice is embedded in the old walls; the admission fee of twice the
ampitheatre seemed a bit steep to go inside a small turret.
There are malls, but from the scale of things, it appears that very
much the opposite of Sarajevo’s development, the economy is still
informal and small-shops based. I’ll continue to supply from the large
stores, Turkish, I think, on the same principle under which I shopped
for supplies at Walmart when working in rural Kentucky. When you are of
the place, or you’re not absolutely reliant on acquiring cheap and
effective things, the small shops are certainly the way to go. Otherwise
— on a military campaign, the quartermaster doesn’t care much for
provenance.
You really do need to put your clothes in the hot wash and take a
thorough shower after wandering less-developed areas of southern Europe.
Part of the routine. Hence Goethe’s travelling cappa magna, below (on
the twitter feed). I keep the washable trenchcoat on at all times.
Remarkably fecund place. But why still now, after decades of development
in which the northern countries developed civic sanitation systems? The
elderly woman I saw sweeping the street was working diligently, but
using a large stick to which a bundle of small sticks was attached at
the end to sweep the sidewalk. Or perhaps it’s the climate, the lack of
hard frosts against the microbiota. Garibaldi divided Africa.
Peculiar signage outside the old stone church, seems to be
functionally a proto-cathedral, but apparently canonically a
co-cathedral. Claims to be the first site of Christian worship, but the
structure dates from 19th c., and earliest claim to archaeological
dating of previous structures is 14th c. (based on a single engraved
cross, now lost). Narrative of the place is the struggle against the
national form of socialism, during which it became a puppet theatre.
Better than the English, turning Blackfriars into a horse barn. Or
perhaps an argument for building small churches. Just in case.
“Just enough Cross by the way to enter the soul in the light
Just enough work by the day to turn us from error to right”
(Old Shaker Song)