Why do I keep thinking about Cluj? Perhaps the church. Every morning (as following my habitual practice when there was an important church on the route), I would stop on the centerline, in front of the doors. Usually before dawn. Some interesting things happened.
The church is aligned, I think, ab oriento, which puts it at some angle to the street grid. Which isn't unusual, but in this case, at least gauging from the ruins visible under the piazza, the grid dates from Roman times.
There is a fascinating mural in the baptistry chapel that appears very old. Christ, with the swords (presumably) of temporal and spiritual sovereignty. The trumpets beneath the higher sword cross, the trumpets beneath the lower sword point opposite directions.
Although renovations (as is the case for most churches in that part of the world) were paid for by the state, it appears to have been conceded to the Hungarian population, with the Romanians and the internationals praying at the church on the campus of the university -- 19th c. The older, larger formerly OFM church on the campus has been given over to the protestants.
There is a tympanum on the front of the Hungarian church that dates from the 14th c., placed there after a peasants revolt. St Michael. Who also figures prominently in the Baroque ornamentation that remains inside. And the present (socially and liturgically conservative) liturgy. Shadows of the Bogomil. I am very sensitive to these things -- to finish the Christian liturgy and then address an extra prayer to an archangel can endanger the faith. In fairness, I feel the same way about prayers to the BVM during the Mass, and I'm very much in favor of the BVM generally.
If I'm able to survive this and prevail, and find a source of sufficient bakshish, hopefully that part of Transylvania will figure in the years to come. Inshallah.