I only joke about going completely mad because it seems the completely rational thing to do before going completely mad.
The clean air in February (rare in the Balkans) and the quiet kitchen are the two positive aspects of the current place. Slogging through, showering and laundering after each journey to the grocery, etc. But the quiet kitchen table is not to be wasted. If you don't run while you have the light, there's not really a point to pressing on.
I suppose if I had gone into this visit as a sort of voyage into the badlands, I might have bought some khakis and wandered the city, but having made an initial exploration or two, and observing how much work there is to be done, the wiser course seems to be following the scent of the lamp.
I did explore a bit, and I'll likely explore a bit more, but the work that is to be done at the table is the prevailing consideration.