ephemera

aktorpoet.com/ephemera (microblog)

 Consider the principle of sufficient reason in the context of the development of technological infrastructure.  Only a broad-based adoption of technology could focus a sufficient amount of resources on the central infrastructure.  Perhaps, instead of seeing the end-gadget and the visual images  on it, as an end in itself, the point of the whole thing -- also see it as a mechanism used to tap the resources of the end-user towards the creation of centralized infrastructure.   

Went to the city's castle -- very ancient, has been held by a few empires over the last thousand years.  Extraordinary views out over the plain, which are also visible at the (much smaller) citadel at the opposite end of the insular channel at the confluence of the two rivers.  I try to make at least one visit there each time I visit here.  I much prefer the castles in Transylvania, though -- there's something very discomfiting about seeing signs for lurid exhibitions of medieval torture devices, given the events of the last fifty years hereabouts -- at least in the northern castles, I'm absolutely confident that they haven't been used for warmaking or carceral purposes for a few centuries.  One does get odd vibes.  But I suppose I'm peculiarly sensitive.  I still wonder a bit why people listen to orchestral requiems as art or entertainment.

 'Your righteousness must exceed that of the communists and the national socialists,' perhaps.

Whatever the merits of nature and nurture, the directly proximate environment does shape the person.  The traffic noise, the chaotic sidewalks, the scents of fried foods, the clouds of secondhand vapes.

Wealthier place aren't marked by these objective phenomena, and their residents seem to have a different general personality.  Persistent correlation can indicate partial causation.  Though having a lot of money can do other things to protect one's personality from the vicissitudes.

 This is perhaps why, during the republic, they looked across the river and built apartments there.  (Though curiously, they appear not to have extended the tram lines.)  There is a famous local novel about the old architecture of the city, the protagonist, a romantic madman, looks in horror through is telescope at the characterless housing growing on the other side of the river.  But there was green space, and planned development, and quiet.  These things don't cost that much, except in the context of the band of detritus around urban areas, where square footage is costly, neighborhoods are ad hoc, etc.  

One doesn't seek out sane housing for the sake of sane housing, as reasonable as that might sound.  The housing shapes the mind, and the sensitive spirit. One turns into a bit of a troglodyte among the detritus, vaping, etc.  

To their credit, they make it a point here to build sufficient housing for the population.  I've seen this in several post-communist states.  Whatever the many sins of the authoritarian state, it publicly preached a strong social ethic, and that ethic has persisted somewhat -- a very valuable residuum.

I can honestly say that I never encountered a law professor who appeared to care more for the object of their study than their own personal social standing.  And I was looking rather closely.  

That rule obtains in the academy generally -- the exceptions whom I've encountered have almost invariably been in philosophy or the arts.  

To be clear, I studied the arts to practice the arts, then found things in the field to be a bit off-target, to use the mildest possible phrase.  Then I studied law to practice law, and found the practice of law to be, with similar discretion, a bit corrupt.   When, finally, I turned to the academy, it was largely animated by a sense that it was the source of the fact that ideas were no longer guiding things.  It would have worked, but as it turns out, if you don't think that there is any truth to be found in the objects of study, there's apparently no need to preserve basic truth and honesty in the interpersonal world.  At the end of it, I was basically trying to play baseball in the middle of a fistfight.

Onward.  The old texts are still available, and they speak.  There's also the possibility of making art at some point in the future, and if I ever find a path past the gates of the law, I'd be able to use those ideas to explain a few things.

Locally important feast of St. Elijah -- midsummer heat, associated with the storm, widely thought to be pre-Christian in origin. 

Steeds and chariots of flame...

 Lammastide.

The purpose of society is not to preserve and populate the forms of social life and industry.  That can be done with a fraction of the population, and if necessary, within a context of near-absolute injustice and corruption, especially when social connections are mediated by technology.  

The purpose of society is the answer to a single question: What is it that all of us should do now?

 I remember reading Newman's Lectures on the Irish University when I was working at the hardware store on the Upper East Side, just after passing the bar exam.  That, and Trollope, preserved some airy spaces in the mind during the hardscrabble days.  Which were, of course, shortly to become even more hardscrabble.  

Hardscrabbler.  Harderscrabble.  It's very important to find the right words for things.  Cf. I. Berlin's anecdote about Akmatova in the bread line.

"Ex umbris et imaginibus in Veritatem"

https://www.vaticannews.va/en/pope/news/2025-07/st-john-henry-newman-set-to-become-newest-doctor-of-the-church.html 

Looking at a map of the region in the 11th c. -- with possibly one exception, all of the places that I've visited were cities then.  (And I think the one not on the map was in existence then, as well.) Not always under the same names, or in the same country, but still there.  Perhaps the norm in Europe.  

I have consciously looked for cities that were historical capitals or sees, sometimes in preference to current capitals.  The ruins of time...

 From the first draft of Gray's Elegy in a Country Churchyard, per today's entry in Chambers:

 

The thoughtless World to majesty may bow, 

Exalt the brave, and idolise success; 

But more to Innocence their safety owe 

Than Power and Genius e'er conspired to bless. 

 

And thou who, mindful of the unhonoured Dead, 

Dost in these notes their artless tale relate, 

By night and lonely contemplation led 

To linger in the lonely walks of Fate, 

 

Hark how the sacred calm that reigns around 

Bids every fierce tumultuous passion cease; 

Instill small accents whisp'ring from the ground 

A grateful earnest of eternal peace. 

 

No more with Reason and thyself at strife, 

Give anxious cares and endless wishes room; 

But through the cool, sequester'd vale of life 

Pursue the silent tenor of thy doom

Proverbs for Paranoiacs, cont'd:  If you are travelling in the Second World, and a large commercial van with dark tinted windows that was outside the apartment yesterday pulls up again the next morning, and then pulls away again a few minutes after you put some towels out to dry in front of the window, it's undoubtedly a coincidence.  If anyone's asking.

[Update, apparently just a van in the local commercial traffic that decided to make an abrupt departure at that particular moment.  But in the Balkans, any excuse for paranoia is useful. Keeps one on one's toes.] 

 Rather profound shift in powers of mental focus (not for the good), together with mild respiratory oddness.  Assuming it's from the rooms above the Pennsylvania Turnpike, which were quite a shift from the quiet, somewhat swampy city of the Jedi Council.  The paradigm for it in my understanding is the beginning of Tarkofski's Solaris -- the earthly home (which we see in the director's ending to be the world of forms), and then this deeply disturbing soundtrack of automobiles and traffic counterbalanced by sedative visuals.  From the place of understanding to the difficult work and alienating journey.  

Given the preponderance of the visual in experiencing films, people often take the traffic section to be simply soporific and sedative -- but if you listen to the audio on its own, it's actually deeply disturbing.   

 Walkure on the Bayreuth broadcast for the Sunday late afternoon/evening.  Rheingold was in the Starbucks across from the national parliament, which went from daytime to nighttime lighting at the finish, which was quite powerful.  But for the first day of the festival, the rooms adjacent to the busy road.  Sufficient for the wanderer.

In this listening, I'm seeing Wotan as a sort of protestant figure.  (Much to do with the reading of the past year, perhaps.)  Building Valhalla against the ones who have gained spiritual power by renouncing earthly love.  Walhall seems a more contingent proposition -- not a universal heaven, but a collection of the noble souls that Wotan's Valkyries are able to capture (St. Michael figures, perhaps) after Wotan had intentionally made the mortals' lives difficult and quarrelsome.  Built by the human giants, not by the Gods.  And he fears that the armies of the ones who have renounced love might even reach these souls that have been taken there and convert them. 

And the ending with the Valkyrie who disobeyed him, even though entirely a creature of his will -- perhaps reckoning the cost of reformation, and attempting to ensure that its spirit will reach the future?

More things in heaven and earth, Horatio.  Particularly earth. 

 Bit of a break in the heat.   Rooms much more liveable.  Still the busy road, but that's only noise.  The absence of fumes and heat (presumably a change in wind with the weather) makes much more of a difference.  The cost is much higher than what the locals pay in rent, but absent the caravanserai mentality, there would be no market whatsoever, an nowhere to travel to.  The caravan continues.

The fundamentals are good -- wood floors, open space, double-glazed windows, but the clothesline is an old synthetic yarn that leaves tiny splinters in the clothing, the air conditioner was literally packed with dry and oily dirt (a half inch on the filter), and there were other electrical/plumbing things.  In addition, there wasn't an open laundry room, so it's been a few weeks of hand-washing.  It's being run as an inexpensive rental, so this apparently the mentality of an inexpensive rental in this part of the world.  Which is odd.  There's no reason that it couldn't be run shipshape without doubling the rent, but that's apparently the distinction.  Hopefully, the month of exhaust fumes from the road won't cause any lingering cloudiness.

Oddly, I came here from the Jedi Council city, which had its own difficulties at times (Yoda's swamp, perhaps), and just before I left, I was watching Tarkovski's Solaris one night after dinner, and was struck by the soundtrack on the driving scene after the rural home at the beginning.  Listening only to the sound, I was struck by how nightmarish it was.   Just the constant rush of traffic, but...

 

 The church is a ladder supply warehouse, not a ladder machine.

In a moment of cynicism, I wonder if the world (multiplied tenfold in the last hundred years) has thought through what might happen if hundreds of millions of people in its most powerful country just start lying as hard as they can -- which seems to be the way things are going.  Our mediated ways of understanding the way things are in the world won't necessarily pick up on this, but the context of everyday experience will change, and unrest will grow.  And the mechanisms that have been developed to suppress unrest have grown quite potent, albeit quietly, over the last fifty years or so.  

Ultimately, you do have to be a good person, if this civilization thing is going to work.  ("You," not "one.")  You don't have to accept the prevailing notion of the good, but you do need to formulate your own idea of the good, and especially in that case of exception, hold to it with all your being.  The real danger is in the (now apparently increasing) thought that neither the common notion of the good, nor private notions of the good, nor the notion of private notions of the good can claim authority.  In a crisis, of course, the wagons will circle around the first, but precisely because that will happen at the expense of the second and the third, we, quite wisely, won't entirely believe it. 

Followed a small rabbit-hole to a digital facsimile of an early Gospel text at the Vatican library.  On a whim familiar to anyone with a smattering of Greek or Latin who has ever visited a museum with artifacts from ancient history, decided to zoom in to see if I could make out anything myself, across 1700 years.  Literally the first word I looked at: αποκαλυται.  

And to bed, I think.   

Again, my yeoman's Greek is full of misleading notions, but...  

Conjecture:  The missing root in "αρτον επιουσιον" was from a neologism, perhaps by the first translators to Greek.  

"Should we say αρτον eχουσια?"

"Νο, it's not about power or authority, it's about the thing itself.  Επι-ουσια is more like it."

"But that's not a word."

"Perhaps you haven't grasped what it is that we're doing here..." 

 In the Soviet film "Road to Saturn," the Russian spy who infiltrated the training program that the Germans were using to train Russian operatives is sitting at the table, drinking with one of the Russian women who are apparently being run in a parallel program.  She looks at him with disdain, and says "You even drink like a German...We Russians have the truth, but we live in s--t up to our ears."

One peculiarity of some folks from the large country to the east whom I've encountered is a disdain for brooms.  It took me a while to realize that this was a learned aversion, rooted in social distinction.  The poor have brooms, the normal folks have vacuums.  Similarly, both there and in other places, excessive organization or hygiene practices is sometimes marked as German behaviour. The need to distinguish yourself, for what might be entirely legitimate reasons, from the people of another culture can sometimes cause you to cede to them some objectively necessary aspects of human, as distinct from animal, behaviour.  I presume this happens unconsciously.  

The only way to keep this from happening is perhaps a culturally distant model.  Two random cultures in the Americas might equally cultivate a specific Japanese mental discipline.  Or perhaps it is possible to only have completely transcendent cultural models, notions of perfection not associated with any lineage or region.  Perhaps America serves for this in the global context, or used to serve for this.

 But there does have to be a discipline.  Like the spy infiltrating the training program, you do need to have sufficient distance from both your own culture and the culture that is being proposed as the model, and yet be focusing your mental and spiritual energy on the task.  As a result, being neither fish nor flesh becomes an objective of the psyche.  (And the character is genuinely between two worlds a bit, as demonstrated by an almost unconscious sniff of the knuckle after sipping the drink.) 

That focus is perhaps equivalent to the truth that the woman was speaking about.  The desire for perfection that is so strong that it makes you consider the lesser perfections (e.g., hygiene, brooms) something that should be renounced.  And yet, this focus, this apperceptive awareness, left to its druthers, would likely find those sorts of things useful. 

 

Rheingold livestream from Bayreuth, a coffeehouse across from the capital of the old Republic, while trying to finish Jaeger's Paideia.  The argument of giants over the completed hall, mortals hungry -- not for the spirit of youth, the original bargain (that which giveth joy to their youth, perhaps), but gold. And then the question of the ring of power, and then the murder of the brother.  An old story. 

 We fashion aesthetics, picturings, of past dystopias in an attempt to avoid them.  Jack-booted thugs, etc.  (Which, to be fair, is sometimes necessary due to the danger of imitation.)  But if you are acting in a craven manner and causing harm, you are creating that which the observers will eventually fashion an aesthetic around and learn to fear, and to teach others to fear.  And the aesthetic, or picturing, which is to say, the sense of how it is with the world, will then necessarily describe you.  This might be the place just beyond where the thinker sits.

 The λεγειν.

https://www.thetimes.com/article/efd25fd0-d33c-40c1-b485-6889a45684c1 

 Honestly like trying to read and think in an unventilated tollbooth on the Pennsylvania Turnpike.  (Which I would also try to do, if it were necessary.)

It's odd, though not unlikely, that these rooms are the antinomy of the present place (industrialization, etc.), while the dank, lightless rooms in the last place were a corresponding antinomy (contemplation, etc.).  When renting apartments on a strict budget, once things are no longer neutral, they become characteristic of the place, occasionally too much so.

 Computer/connection more than a bit wonky over the last several days.  Might need to do another rebuild.

Bayreuth season opens tonight, I think.   Hope springs eternal.  Though mostly in the countries to the north.  As for the professor in Vanya or any number of migrants from Africa or the Middle East making their way through the forests -- the picture of a Swedish cabin, that notion of northern civilizations, can exert a peculiar fascination in midsummer in southern Europe.

It's an interesting time in the shining city on the hill, as the world can see.  This isn't an accidental executive -- when a preponderance of hundreds of millions have to cast their vote, the verdict is never not meaningful.  

At the end of the sixteenth century, the travelling theatre in England changed.  People now had to pay to get in.  (This resulted in a few brawls.)  The theatre started to be staged in guild halls and commercial centers, and the audience strained to show as many outward signs of wealth as they possibly could.  In the well-told tale, this has a lot to do with the Reformation.   

If you believe that the having of money and power are good in themselves, and sufficient for the devotion of a life's work, you will make a certain kind of world.  In a prosperous society, this ostentatious flaunting of wealth and power might seem like an effective mechanism for keeping the factories churning and the trucks of frozen hamburgers rolling.  But correlation is not causation.  And when even the philosophers become pragmatic about the relationship between civic ideals and industrial prosperity, the proposition that life is a game, with the goal being to acquire wealth and powerful positions, and that success in this game writes both the rules of the game and the meaning of the game, begins to sink its deeper roots among the hundreds of millions.

Ground yourself in the truth of your being each day, and you will come to know the character of the times. 

The noise and pollution of these rooms are really difficult.  Like trying to read Henry James in the median of I-95.  And not the good bits.  Baltimore.  Jersey.

After the sunless rooms with sewage problems in the last country, I seem to be encountering housing antinomies.  Excesses in one direction or the other.  (Not being able to book sufficiently in advance due to some admin shenanigans was the main cause.)

Onward, in moderation. 

 You can't waste time, and your life, vaguely gesturing at the pervasive corruption.  Go back to the texts that were written before the corruption set in -- they're freely available now, and not the province of the academic libraries (that nobody uses now, anyway).  Come to a separate understanding of the world strong enough to stand in the light of the tradition, and if the world, or some small portion of it, has need of it, help them if you can.

Shifting tactics on making the rooms workable.  The irritation and infection, which I at first thought was an illness from the journey, doesn't appear to be particulate-based.  The air is stale, especially in the afternoon, but the summertime 2.5 numbers are negligible.  (There have been places during this journey where the meter has gone to purple--approximately 3-4x what's usually considered a lock-the-doors crisis stateside.)  Perhaps it's a dust mite thing -- I did clear almost an inch of packed dust off of the climate control filters when I arrived.   Bagged the curtains, rolled the rug, and covered the mattress in a plastic tarp.  Will see if the symptoms persist.

It does have a psychological effect.  Bit off the game. Onward.

Stardust at the Proms.  Hoagy C. seems to be orbiting back into the cultural view.  Probably won't extend to the more playful corners of his catalogue.  But there is some worthwhile magic in his stuff. I remember walking through the part of the campus at Indiana that inspired Stardust -- quite an idyllic spot.

This is a part of the world marked by atavistic political structures.  Perhaps this country is a kingdom.  A kingdom has a king, and usually dislikes him intensely.  (At least one of his two bodies.  Girard goes so far as to say that given the fascination with the model, and the rivalry that it generates, a king is simply a condemned prisoner with an exceptionally long commutation of sentence.)  But in such a culture, it is thought, nonetheless, that there should be a king, and this king is the one at hand.  A republic tends to function in a different, more mercurial manner.  With occasionally problematic results, given the types of people who can come to power.  Historically, this part of the world has seen many states in this model -- witness the monarchies that essentially governed the old Republic and the large nation to the east for decades.

A nation doesn't change its character by political action, but by cultural transformation.  A kingdom can't become a republic by electing a republican slate.  In the same manner, the government has nothing to do with whether a country is a kingdom, a pure democracy, or a republic.  The people make the king.  Transformation, if it is desired, has to come in the nation's notions of itself, before its political actions can be characterized as transformative.

Apolitical, of course, as to local questions.   None of the local political factions or paradigms seem to hold much truth or seem justified to me, which is as it should be.  They exist for the people of this place, and the people of this place are the only ones who can find them either necessary or superfluous.  The form of the state is a matter for the people of the place.

 "Know ye not that we shall judge angles?"

- Pythagoras (likely apoc.)

One thing to keep in mind in the context of American political discussions: In East Germany a generation ago, the border guards were convinced to fire on people attempting to escape by being told that the people scrambling over the wall were stealing the value of their education from the state. 

These questions are not entirely anodyne. 


 

 Still trying to find a way of using these rooms.  Picked this one over the usual residential place, as a business seemed safer than a random person given the politics, and, more importantly, there was a solid table and chair.  I cleaned out as much of the accumulated dust from the climate control as I could reach, wiped down all the surfaces, and cleared the drains (no chemicals), but the air still feels bad, and there are some corresponding systems.  (To understand the nature of a place, watch the way your physical and psychological mechanisms function.)

Wind from the south in the AM brought clean air, but the shift to the west and the heat of the afternoon made things stale again.  Hard to tell if the the bad things are coming from inside or outside.  Likely a bit of both.   

Since there turned out to not be a laundry room, it's hand laundry for the most part, a skill I acquired from the (also peak tourist--summer) garret across from the economics college in Bucharest.  Part of the difficulty is that some shenanigans a couple of months ago left me with a bit less of a reserve than I'd like, and I couldn't book the last two places sufficiently in advance.

Onward. 

 

Interesting, Taverner's Veil of the Temple is opening the Edinburgh Festival this year.  I remember the Lincoln Center performance shortly after the Temple Church premiere.  Groundling ticket, so the floor for the full eight hours -- composer in attendance, signalling for the audience to rise by raising both arms in a grand gesture as he stood.  And then on to the dawn.  Time (and the time) can be known in many ways, if you don't take it for granted.

Interesting talk about sugar in the carbonated drinks.  The pivot to corn syrup was Nixon, I think, primarily because of Cuba.  Wondering if there's anything in play there -- Florida businessmen seem to be driving it.  When I was still eating processed foods, Diet Coke was the elixir of choice, it's sort of a NYC business thing.

Not exaggerating the current quarters.  It's near a nice part of the capital, basically the UWS of the city, but it downhill, in an industrial quarter, with a bit of a canyon above a narrow, busy street.  Basically like going from the most unheimlich quarter of Louisiana to the most toxic corner of Bayonne.  (At several multiples of the prevailing local rents.) Hopefully, the one month's stay won't be too catastrophic on the health.  

Odd and powerful dreams after leaving the last country, a country characterized by strong dreams.  I haven't entirely put aside the notion that there might be a spiritual ground for the wars in this part of the world.   A divided sky.

Onward. 

Interesting, the guiding trope of the TLS this week is the deep state, as reflected in American thought.  Given that the notion first surfaced in the LRB, describing political structures in the Arab states, the long arc of thought appears to have reached its end--and hopefully not its apotheosis.  Like the other expressions, having reliably indicated a certain thing in being for a certain space of time.  The bits of sapient mud will have to think up some new noises now.

The sorts of thoughts that arise when one wakes up in a corner of the Balkans that very much resembles Jersey City, or perhaps Bayonne.  But it's better to think than not to think; one can't guide a motionless ship.

 I've mentioned this several times, but I think the general notion is important, and might explain many things:  within the prosperity of the postwar industrial forms, which can function equally for a strong civil society and a weak civil society, things are starting to fall apart a bit.  Academic credentials, experience, and skills tend not to count for much.  You must be liked.  They're not creating an ordered society, they're inviting people to a party.  If you're the sort of person who is to be invited and you have the right education, skills and experience, so much the better.  Frankly, I've never liked parties, and I've never thought that the point of life was to be found acceptable by other people.  Our task is to hold the tent up in the present age, not to relax in the billowing part with the greatest ease.  A society, within its time, continues to strain upward using the shared forms of experience, rather than severally enjoy the ultimately meaningless party until it's time to leave.

Another note along these lines: until I spent some time abroad (writes Ovid), I didn't have a sense of my own ethnic identity in the minds of others.  When you grow up from childhood in a certain context, you tend to assume that the way you are being treated is the way that people are treated.  There is the notion of "the conversation" among disfavored minorities in America, when the adults try to point out the dangers to their otherwise blissfully ignorant children.  I never had any real grounding in my ethic heritage, but in retrospect I can see that it was a cause of some contention within my family and among their associates.  As I looked back over my experiences, noticed how things worked out, and remembered the things that were said, it dawned on me that, at least in some cases, my perceived ethnic heritage was the dispositive factor at certain crucial moments.  The challenge, now that I've had such a conversation with myself, is to preserve the transcendent ground on my side of the fence, and keep those kinds of thoughts on the other side of the fence--where they have been all along.

 Peculiar journey.  The last rooms, although I had stayed in them before, proved difficult, as with the midsummer foliage and the wall opposite, it was a bit like a basement, and the reason for the dozen or so air fresheners around the WC and hallway became apparent, as I slowly became aware that there was a sewage blockage.  Rented at multiples of the local cost, of course, with added insurance costs.  Looking back on it now, as I consciously just swam the tide, as it were, at the time.  Travel in this part of the world for an American of Slavic/German ancestry isn't necessarily straightforward at times.  There's an ethic of rules of hospitality, and everyone's eager to make a bit of money on the tourist industry, but they sometimes clearly expect clueless Americans from Disneyland with rolling luggage from the airport.  And Bosnia is not a place where you would want to tally up  and remember the micro-aggressions on sidewalks, benches, and grocery stores.  Just swim on through a country bedeviled by more spiritual forces than most Americans could handle for more than a few days.  (Like many other countries in the region.)

Rented luggage storage on checkout day, which I had previously thought to be a luxury, but came to understand a necessity.  The contractor was a Celtic pub, which was reassuring, but I then checked that sense as deceiving when I realized it was staffed entirely by (kilted) locals.  Peculiarly un-Hibernian.  So I made a point of going through the bag item by item on a park bench afterwards, as I have no intention of spending a decade in a Serbian prison from contraband that had accidentally fallen inside somehow.

Then the difficult journey.  Afterwards, figured out enough of the tram to get from the distant bus station to the center.  The Sbux across from the parliament had a WC that reeked of sewage, so I just briefly ducked in before decamping to a chair outside for the 90 minutes or so before the diplomats' mass at the Cathedral.  (Audibly translated from English to French by someone in the back, including the words of institution and--perhaps--consecration.)  Then to the check-in, did the first level of cleaning in the rooms in a rather noisy and industrial neighborhood (but very close to desirable areas and the main roads).  As it turns out, the listed shared laundry facilities amount to contacting the staff, scheduling a pick-up, and then paying 5e/load, so I'm back to laundromats and hand-washing, like in Bucharest a little over a year ago.  Humble quarters. And then the grocery for water and food.  (Made sure to go back to the Sbux and the same grocery  the next day, rested, cleaned, and more professionally dressed -- all of the cultures in this part of the world are honestly an inch from fascism (in different, interesting ways), and one does have to both be careful of such things and not care a bit about them.

Last bit of cleaning of the rooms today, including prising the half-inch of caked dust from the internal filter of the AC unit. (Peculiarly, the way these units are designed here, presumably given the inability to run ductwork through external walls of unreinforced masonry, there's no fresh air from these units -- they invariably recycle room air.)  

Onward, in a (or perhaps the) manner of speaking. 

Day of setting up, reacquainting  myself with this part of the city, remembering that is was possible to work and think here.  If you try to make these jumps without care for that sort of thing, it's five days before you can read, a week before you can think, and a week and a half, if not a fortnight before it's possible to write.  The dog doesn't bark, and the caravan moves on.

Part of looking to the types of folks who were displaced during the second world war (Adorno, Benjamin, Mann et al.) is creating a mimetic model of a person who does something more than survive the journey.

Le Carre told the story of going backstage to meet Thomas Mann after one of his unsuccessful lectures on the latter's return to Germany.  The writer, standing there in his suspenders and collared dress shirt.  The young student Cornwall asked to shake his hand, and did, and remembered it.  The reason we make statues is that we can then think about ourselves as being in the company of such folks, not just staring up at the plinth.  Becoming like them, to a certain degree.  It allows us to place ourselves in the contexts of ideas and experiences that we would otherwise consider completely alien to us. Imitation is a door, not a way of life, but it is a good door.  

 The Kantian notion of appearances ultimately being the ground of things does point us in the direction of the things themselves (perhaps the ultimate goal, answering Jacobi's complaint), and it also makes us aware of what other people are doing with their truth claims.   The world has always been overlaid by shared views of the world composed of gossip, misdirection and mistake -- the risk of present error might be that in the attempt to ground these perceptions in the way that things actually are, one of these systems needs to acquire extraordinary mechanisms of perception and corresponding influence so that truth can govern the world.  And the things going on now quietly, behind the scenes with certain California data-based companies, when combined with AI management, might actually being such a scheme into existence, and more troublingly, action.

To which, I can only reply, with a bit of Kant in my rucksack -- go back to Kant!

 Interesting balancing of continental civil rights and archaic practices of privilege aiming to eventually accomplish much the same thing.

https://www.thetimes.com/article/a072aa94-9264-4076-8542-15177b2d80e3 

 Feast of Kateri Tekakwitha, as remembered on the bronze doors of St. Pat's and the novels of Leonard Cohen (the latter only skimmed in a B&N).   


 

To the local research library -- from what I've been told, the only one open to the public, associated with one of the large trusts sustaining the old city.  Rather problematic place.  Books have to be requested 4.5 hours before closing.  Electronic catalog in need of a cleanup; perhaps a dozen categories for Language: English.  One of the two volumes of Andric short stories I managed to request was also in need of some cleaning -- lifted it up and opened it before I noticed that it was covered with what I hope was caked-on food of some kind.  Was hoping to find Andric's thesis on spiritual life in Bosnia under the Ottomans, but peculiarly, the only edition in the catalog was in German.  Also, a biography of a Sufi saint from the UK who has written some interesting things on Shakespeare proved un-locatable in time.  Did notice an interesting title on Islamic courts in the old Republic.  Will have to check it out on the next visit, whenever that might be.

The trick to remaining a bit sane in peculiar times mostly involves the ability to not go completely mad at any given moment.  It's all about the moments.

(And also the ability to tune out the chuntering and jibes from the threadbare leprechauns pacing the ceiling.  And coffee.  You'll need coffee.)

 Walked over to the cultural center for the first half or so of a set by a local blues/funk ensemble.  Quite good. Was reading Hoffmann's Serapion Brothers.  A bit uncanny at points -- to be sitting in a converted synagogue in Bosnia listening to a blues jam while reading a story about a poet and composer, old friends, meeting during the carnage of the Napoleonic wars and talking about art and war.

 

Local recycling appears to have dropped off a bit, as in the neighboring nations.  Usual bins not in evidence, and the central bin location in this half of the city appeared to be filled with garbage when I ran past the other day.  Two local incentivizing machines, one dispensing transit tokens, and the other dispensing food for stray dogs (a concept I've seen in a few countries, and always found a bit puzzling -- the prescence of hungry strays at the waste disposal point would seem to disincentivize)--but these generally don't accept the large water bottles that buid up from the daily supply.   

Build broad, stong pipes, and--only then--figure out ways to incentivize the inflow. 

Oddly, in the market-based country on the east of the peninsula, recycling appears to be going well.  (So long as you find out which sector of the city is controlled by the recycling-friendly factions.) Second-to-last time I was there, it took some doing to find a clothes donation bin; I finally found one by a local Orthodox church.  On my next visit, they were quite ubiquitous.

One other oddity about the northern city in that county.  On my first visit, I rented an apartment in a concrete tower at the top of the hill, from which I could see the flashing lights on the immense steeple of the old medieval church in the distance.  On the second visit, I was much closer in, but facing the other direction, so I looked up at the apartment I had rented on the first visit.  On the third visit, I returned to the first apartment, and as I looked for the second apartment below, I realized that it was precisely on line with the steeple of the medieval church.  Not a function of the street grid, or of main arterries, as the second place was off the main roads.  More things in heaven and earth.

 https://youtu.be/ohakjwIYkrE?feature=shared&t=1117

Odd day.  Went to the coffeehouse in the early afternoon to read, and elected to sit outside amid the upturned chairs (morning storm), louring clouds, and occasional drizzle rather than risk the airless rooms inside.  The people here seem to be a bit like the Chicago folks -- apparently comforted by airless warmth.  The closeness of it, perhaps.  Then the rain started in earnest, so I explored the downtown mall across the street, picking up a few necessary supplies.   

Then, a long day filled with completely useless and frustrating matters, well into the night, missing the free concert at the arts center that I had mentally penciled in.

If things were going well, if Denmark didn't have the sulphur smell to it, I'd still try to wake from the thoughtless tread through the days that seems to animate so much of the world.  But, with things going the way they are, waking isn't a virtue, but a necessity.

Postprandial: "July Rain"  -- "Where will you go when spring floods the earth?"

Important set of UK international chambers seems to have reached a conclusion on the conflict in the Levant.  That the sort of thing (unlike almost everything else in the news) that is more significant than it might at first appear to be.  Perhaps.  Haven't followed those conversations closely.  

One tension in Kant is that knowledge can't reach beyond experience, and perception, and therefore experience, is limited to appearance.  That which limits our thoughts is itself a bit false.  Or at least chimerical.  But, like a dull schoolteacher, it still wields the rod.  

Things are seldom what they seem / Skim milk masquerades as cream...

  

 

Plumbing travails at the rooms appear to have been resolved.  Oddly, had similar troubles last year at about this time -- was at the theatre festival in Transylvania, and the hot water went out for a week.  The trick is not just to shower in cold water, but to thoroughly shower in cold water.

 Also.  If you have gone through a time when there were extraordinary physical difficulties associated with simple existence, these times will recur to your mind in the future.  Don't accept the pop-culture explanation for this.  This is your life reaching from a place of danger to a place of safety.  From the place of safety, remember the place of danger, conscious that it is of the same material life.  Build that bridge for recollection in tranquility.

As I've become acquainted with the subtle and not-so-subtle aspects of this (historically unique) part of the world, lines of force have developed.  I incline towards a certain place when I encounter a certain difficulty.  I might devoutly wish myself into the busy streets of Bucharest, or (as happened in a difficult February in the nation to the south) the mountains of Bulgaria.  And this isn't entirely about the empirical aspects of the place.  Once you find the three (perhaps four) lines of main force -- from the West, the south, and the East (and perhaps the north), you can sort of feel where you are in that spiritual geography.

Keeping in mind as well, that pining is a classic human fault.  No matter where you are, or in what straits you might be,  there have been times in your life, or (/and) there will be times in your life when you wish that you were precisely in the place where you are.  Everything in a life tends to the essence of that life, as it becomes known in time.

Gently down the stream.  For 'tis seemly so to do.  

(And it also keeps one from going mad as a hatter in the January sunshine. Mercurial fellows.)

Discouraging day.  Discovered a plumbing problem in the rental in the AM, which might have been running sewage through the shower drain for some time now, went out for a Sunday hot chocolate ($2.50), did some reading (Peirce, Wolff biography (couldn't focus), Jaeger's Paieda (could focus)) at the cafe and at some parks around the city, caught a bit of the Mass of the Faithful at the local parish church, but arrived later than planned, as I mis-timed the vespersII mumbling and the crosstown walk.  (Have avoided the cathedral since the tourist/massgoer confusion that ended with my walking in despite the fact that the old fellow was grabbing onto me and trying to pull me back.)  Then to the theatre for an hourlong piece that the English-language website listed an hour later than the (apparently correct) time on the local version.  Perils of data entry.  

Eavesdropping on a slightly tape-delayed Carmina Burana from the east now, quite good, especially the soli.  Heard an excellent version in Bucharest earlier in the year from the back balcony no-view.  (Intentional, as I didn't want to be distracted by the staging.)

Some sabbaths one survives, rather than finds the triumph.  Boldly on to the other six days.


 

 "To set forth thy true and lively word..."  

(UK BCP)

 One result of the interesting paths of late, and long, is having remarkably little tolerance for the "All is lost, I ordered my latte without foam" line of thinking.  It's a social and historical fact that in a world without consciousness of the divine, and people even unable to imagine the possibility of their own experience of eternal time, that in the game for social power, people cultivate habits of conspicuous consumption and learned incapacity.  And to be rather obvious about it.

The game is at least partially to 'get a rise' out  those around you. This is the part that gives an advantage in the social game.  When you become angry at a person, group, or conceptual belief, it's the first step to being controlled by the question of them.  A complicated formulation, but follow it.  Anger at the night draws us into the question of day and night, as the two are the same question.  Heraclitus, I think.

So when a conspicuous consumer appears before you, cultivate dispassion, and look as closely as you can, and try to understand. 

 Thinking about the friction that I encountered at the discount Turkish chain during the resupply run.  It's the sort of thing I wouldn't think twice about if I had encountered it in, say Jersey City, or some other place, with folks of identical nationalities.  It did rather stand out given the general mutal-respect tone here, though.

Outdoor ballet festival performance.  Interesting.  Sort of Twyla Tharp/Jerome Robbins to Dennishawn and the 1920s Olympic cult to a battle between Balanchine and Robbins won by Akram Khan.  

The initmacy of this city is sometime surprising.   Basically the scale of a well-attended NYC block party.  

On the other hand, I have seen tens of thousands of the locals jumping up and down and screaming in fury in the night -- football derby, anniversary edition, on a prior visit.  Left at halftime.

Walked through the old city afterwards, which isn't entirely the tourist/nightlife area found in the more commercialized countries to the north and east.  People are still using it to live in.    

 

Interesting episode at the Turkish clothing chain at the more Western of the two downtown malls.  Was looking at an Oxford shirt, so I took the three that I was going to buy, walked to the mirror, put the shirts down on the shelf next to it, and put one of the shirts on over the long-sleeve shirt I was wearing.  A clerk came over, and for some reason told me that I couldn't put the shirts on a shelf where they didn't belong.  I accommodated the request, moved them onto the original shelf, and went back, and put the shirt on a second time, like a jacket.  Whereupon the fellow told me that I couldn't do that (he hadn't mentioned that the first time) -- I would have to go to the dressing room to try it on over my clothing.  

"Friend," I said, I "if you tell me to leave, I'll leave without buying anything, but I'm not going to buy this shirt without doing this."  He stepped away, I put the shirt on over my clothing, took it off, bought the three shirts, and left.  

Sort of a discount chain.  Not exactly Saks. 

Interesting place, sometimes.  

[I should add that most folks are very friendly and hospitable, especially to US types.  And the Balkan ethic of hospitality is very strong throughout the old Republic.  Quite the matter of honor.] 

#saturdayradio #palmsofvictory #crownsofglory

https://www.prairiehome.org/shows/57315.html 

 Interesting piece in the local press about a recent sharp decline in visitors locally from the Levant.  Always good to notice when others are getting out of the water, perhaps.

The irony of the great conflict (or, at times, game) between Western Christianity (which has its own divisions of mortal enmity) and Islamic fundamentalism, is that the most vitriolic and intractable forces on either side occupy the same position of social conservatism within their society.  Left solitary and adrift, they would most naturally land in the part of the other society that was most intractably opposed to their own cast of mind.  There is a reason for this.  This opposition is animated by the larger movement of encounter.  Closeness and similarity, not difference and distance, brings conflict.  (Girard is essential.)  This isn't just irony and folly.  The encounter and the conflict have a purpose.  The preservation of all things under different aspects.

--------------------

Think of it as an island surrounded by land, and all around the shore, people are building bridges to it.  They will usually succeed, given the cunning of the island.  But it is possible that one of the land-dwellers can find himself on a bridge on which he will not be able to get to the half of the bridge nearest the island without an extraordinary bit of luck, grace, what you will.

------------------

Tread gently. 

 

We should perhaps see life as the universe doing its best to reach these sapient bits of mud before it's too late for any given one of them.

 The old Rothschild line about peaks and valleys being for amateurs parallels, and perhaps derives from a similar precept about happiness and unhappiness.  (Which is distinct from pain and difficulty.)  When things go up and down, when they agitate, they teach us that they exist.  We perceive the territory.  The question then becomes what they might be.  Mountains teach us about the earth (despite the Victorian industrial rail travellers running down the curtains upon seeing them), and we then become aware of the prescence of the earth.  The truth of the earth, though, isn't necessarily the mountains.

 Interesting.  Was browsing other things while Tarkovsky's Solaris was in an open window.  In the scene driving on the highway, the sound seems much more discordant and chaotic without the steadying image of the driver's path.  Perhaps the point.

 Anniversary of the deaths of Jefferson and Adams.  One, the author of an important document of international diplomacy and an important law for his state, and the founder of a university.  The other, a politician who helped to unite the merchant puritans of the north with the plantation founders of a more European inclination to the south, and who was largely responsible for the written constitution of his state.

 Kindertotenlieder by the city's symphony orchestra at a local genocide memorial conference.  At first, I thought looking to Vienna for the local vocabulary of mourning was odd, but then I recollected (hear the Hegelian sense) that I was sitting in a theatre that had been built by Austria-Hungary.  These are ancient commixtures. Very clear overlay of the local meaning on the dynamics of the piece -- much more mournful and pensive than I remember in other hearings, very appropriate to the moment and the manner, and the intentions of the players.  Very capable group.

Lessons from antiquity, con't: When the dictator comes to power over the aristocracy through popular support (e.g., Pisistratus), it necessarily implies that the aristocracy, the few, the mesne lords, had lost their legitimacy in the eyes of the people.  

The Republic, if we can keep it, is of course res/publica.  Enlightenment political theorists applied the term to many forms of government, including monarchies, legislative rule, etc. before settling on a democratically elected legislature.  Res is thing, here the thing of common concern.  And there's where the term does its work.  The inferential construction of the public goods -- the saying of what it is that we have when we have something together.  Heidegger, followed by absolutely none of the dictionaries that I've found, suggested that it traces to ρημα, word.  When the common construction of the shared life is empty, a person takes its place, and becomes the republic.

Noticed some interesting phrasing in an administration statement today.  "Under President X, no one is above the law."  Let those with ears to hear, hear. 

 The latest Microsoft Windows update tells me that it will need 20G to implement itelf.  Fortunately, none of the input devices on inexpensive Winbooks are yet capable of registering a dismissive smirk.

 [In fairness, I did try to help the process.  Deleted apps, tmp files, etc., compressed OS, etc.] 

 Inexplicable late morning.  The sleep of the place appears to have made a bit of an incursion.  Perhaps connected to the pollution, or the changed paths of the run that resulted.  The main thing is to strike at the root -- I learned that in the country to the south this February.  To a deeper asceticism.  

 Update, it seems the smoke was from a fire at an unlicensed landfill in the eastern part of the city.  It's in the other political entity, so there's probably no way of knowing how toxic the brew was.  Slogging on.  Not exactly California hereabouts.

Thinking of the years of classical theatre verse and swordplay.  Many of the varying endeavours of the last space of years or so might be understood as an attempt to create a life that could sustain a good bit of that sort of thing.  The lack of such things in present experience would seem to ipsa loquitor, as they say.  

In fairness, having prepared for many auditions en route, I can testify that reciting classical verse by yourself while walking down the street can draw some odd looks.  And that's even without the rapiers.

 The thirty-first of June.  A good holiday to observe.

 Path of the run took me into some serious pollution haze, which was odd for this time of year.  Thought it would be local, but, in the event, it extended over a good bit of the run, and then I had to return through it.  Checking the pollution monitors on return to the rooms, the levels were third-world levels, the sort of numbers that kept me in the rooms with a HEPA whirring away when I visited here in winter.  Will increase the hydration in the coming days, etc.  

That which does not kill us will quite likely try again tomorrow.

It's no exaggeration to say that I have to rebuild the tower in each city.  The texts there come from a different construction of things.  Like the fellow in the back of the caravan who rebulds his house of cards each time they stop for the night.  

It could be much worse, of course. I think of the roughest times in the city where the days basically amounted to continuously taking a small hammer (or perhaps a large rock) to the intricate pocketwatch that I had constructed in conservatory.  Here, there is a point in the rhythm for the creation of the means.  A time of flowering.  That point in the dance.

 

 After the dreams of last night, it seems wise to give the souk a wide berth for the remainder of the visit, at least in the evenings.  Spiritually unsettling, but none the less true for that.  

 Listened to a talk by a world-famous philosopher over dinner.  Read his latest book a few months ago.  The talk was recorded in 2018.  Not only did the talk (on politics and philosophy generally) immediately drift briefly to the Balkans, but the philosopher, sotto voce, as part of it, mentioned a national holiday of a neighboring country.  Which is today.  More things in heaven and earth, Horatio.

 It occurs to me that part of the reaction in Venice is that a few centuries ago, a visiting potentate would have thrown a party for the city generally as part of the festivities.  But wealth is private good these days.

Walked around the souk after a couple hours of reading with a bit of kefir in the cafe.  Quite different at night.  There's a qualitative difference between these sorts of bazaars/markets and the attempts to replicate them at theme parks, etc.  Three hundred years ago, someone (along with several dozen others) thought it might be a good idea to put a booth with some baklava and coffee across from the mosque, and it's still a good idea now.  They didn't set out to construct the atmosphere of the place.  (Though the modernization does smooth things out a bit.)  Much kitsch, of course, but there are still worthwhile things if you know the right sections of the market to look.  Very famous section of hammered copper work hidden in a small side alley off the main spot. 

Completely modern city, of course, bars and nightlife blocks packed full of folks with their drinks, tables set out on the road wherever the yellow line bounding the driving space allows enough curb.   Distinctly Turkish vibe, in some tension with the Moorish style of the brightly lit Austro-Hungarian architecture.  Rock music blending with the evening calls to prayer.  

Lingered outside a mosque, looking in for a bit -- the fountain, the oudoor prayer spaces.   Comparatively, filing in and briefly sticking a fingertip in a bit of water before finding a place in a pew seems downright puritan.  Liturgy opens us up for the encounter with these things. God doesn't need liturgy. And sometimes a more careful approach to the building itself can be very useful.  In the Midwest, they don't even use the door anymore.  Since everyone drives to the church, and the parking lots are usually away from the road, people just head in the side entrance, bypassing the carefully designed entrance to the space.

 An appropriate In Our Time for the week of the thirty-first of June.  I've come across a few folks who think that the old tales of the serpent are something more than a metaphor, but I've never followed up on those lines of thought.  Seek and ye shall find.   #saturdayradio

 https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/m002dzy4 

 "Only the future is certain.  The past is unpredictable."

(Old USSR joke) 

You do have to be careful when forming ideas under conditions of adversity.  Often, it's just kicking at the pricks, attempting to keep the stinger (Canetti) at bay.  

I was cafeful not to form dogmatic opinions, but after many years of subsequent work, I think I can trust my understanding of what I saw when, as a method actor from New York, I went to a (top-ranked) Midwestern law school, and understood that there were some peculiarities there.  I then transferred to another (top-ranked) school back in New York, and I learned something completely different.  (While actually devoting myself to the work, incidentally, taking as many credit hours as I could, getting strong grades, and briefing every case.)

Subsequent work has been instructive.  I'm confident that my keeping to the academics then wasn't illusory, and it is what a scholar within the larger academic tradition would have done. And I learned some other things about the culture during that return to the university.  Many of the authority figures in the Midwest were like the police officers who would stop me from time to time on spurious bases, mainly because they wanted to keep the bicyclists and pre-dawn runners under control.  At least they explicitly used the phrase "I want to teach you a lesson."  And there's a long story there, about the land-grant state universities built in the 19th c. by nativist legislatures some distance from the cities, and their relationship to the immigrants drawn to them from the cities.  Every institution is but the lengthened shadow of its founders, as Santayana said in his lectures on the university.

As to the culture of the continent writ large, I have come to the understanding that there's a lot of wrongdoing going on inside the prosperity brought by these industrial forms, perhaps largely because the postwar industrial forms are strong enough to function whatever the condition of the culture.  But there are relics and useful things within these places.  The old basketball gyms at I-----.  The immense, usually empty, library stacks at I-----------.  Useful things are there, but you won't find them if you think as the people of our time think.  

 They said, "You have a blue guitar / You do not play things as they are."

The man replied, "Things as they are/  Are changed upon the blue guitar."

Caesura. 

If you've thrown in your lot with truth, don't expect to find justification.  The vindiculum is reserved to the purposes of the collective, not the saving of private truth.

Heigh ho, the wand and the reign... 

Notably, Pisistratus was a very successful leader, despite bringing a tyranny that defeated the arisocracy completely.  Poets and playwrights (I think) gathered at his court to enunciate the virtues of the reborn state.  People generally stayed on the farm and prospered, rather than flooding into the cities in search of work and food.  (One historian said that they didn't come to the cities because their pro-Pisistrates garments would be laughed at.)

I would say things are going just as one might have thought they would go, with the rise of a businessman from New Amsterdam.  (Who, it should be noted, was relentlessly publicized on network television for many years.)  Both the tactics and the alliances are what one might have expected.  And the successes have been real, because running public policy with the herrschaft methods of private industry is like having a pro baseball player as a ringer in the company softball game.  But the point of the company softball game isn't always about softball.  And in the political realm, the success of an executive doesn't make a state.  (See every book written by a king for his son, 1300-1650.)  Statecraft, which is the game the others at the table are playing, is a more complicated endeavour.  

That's the logical view.  The best response from the paritsans of the current leader would be that the corporate mindset rewrites the rules of politics, and allows politicians to be more effective.  All well and good, and the quintessence of the sort of pragmatism that birthed the phenomenon, but we have been here before.  An expansionist corporate state led by a fellow whom they called their "guide."  Perhaps because the image of the effectiveness of the leader was the only thing fashioning the state.  

Things could still turn out well.  But the aristocracy, even if kept from effectively governing things, does need to stake out a position in the collective mind.  The idea of the Aeropagus, an institution for which the present leader has no use, must somehow persist.  

Ambroise never indicates his role in the crusade: the only detail he gives about himself is the remark 'nos autre qui a pié fumes' ('we who were on foot'; Ambroise, verse 12039). 

https://www.oxforddnb.com/display/10.1093/ref:odnb/9780198614128.001.0001/odnb-9780198614128-e-66813 

This is a rather spiritually dark city.  Though very powerful--it hasn't been emptied out.  These things are still living questions.  But a jedi (shouldn't it be jedus?) has to tread carefully, wake early, and avoid the crowds.  Rooms a bit lightless and airless, and some other difficulties there.  Slogging through.

On my last visit, it struck me that it was a city under two shadows--the second being the realpolitik alliances with my part of the world, among others.  And there is some distant Jeffersonian gleam there of a religiously devout, yet diverse, republic.  But at the same time, speaking as a patriot, our realpolitik-inclined apparachiks aren't our best folks.  And the local tendency seems to be to polarization and possession rather than founding a diverse republic.

The jedi wakes early, runs, reads, and tries to avoid thinking about the theatre festival in Transylvania that he'd much rather be at this week.  Not pining, exactly, but one does plan these paths so that one can tap the wells and replenish the inner strength, and while there's safe quarters and reasonably priced coffee and kefir nearby, this oasis is not inhabited by my people.

 

What Britten is picking up on here (@ around 1:50) is the reversal of the iamb into the trochee -- strong/weak as opposed to weak/strong.  Shakespeare uses it carefully.  Sometimes it's called his "magic speech."  Usually hexameter as opposed to pentameter.  Generally it happens when someone is causing something good to happen. 


 

 Midsummer night.  

  The Eve of St. John is a great day among the mason-lodges of Scotland. What happens with them at Melrose may be considered as a fair example of the whole. 'Immediately after the election of office-bearers for the year ensuing, the brethren walk in procession three times round the Cross, and afterwards dine together, under the presidency of the newly-elected Grand Master. About six in the evening, the members again turn out and form into line two abreast, each bearing a lighted flambeau, and decorated with their peculiar emblems and insignia. Headed by the heraldic banners of the lodge, the procession follows the same route, three times round the Cross, and then proceeds to the Abbey. On these occasions, the crowded streets present a scene of the most animated description. The joyous strains of a well-conducted band, the waving torches, and incessant showers of fire-works, make the scene a carnival. But at this time the venerable Abbey is the chief point of attraction and resort, and as the mystic torch-bearers thread their way through its mouldering aisles, and round its massive pillars, the outlines of its gorgeous ruins become singularly illuminated and brought into bold and striking relief.

The whole extent of the Abbey is with "measured step and slow " gone three times round. But when near the finale, the whole masonic body gather to the chancel, and forming one grand semicircle around it, where the heart of King Robert Bruce lies deposited near the high altar, and the band strikes up the patriotic air, " Scots wha ha'e wi' Wallace bled," the effect produced is overpowering. Midst showers of rockets and the glare of blue lights the scene closes, the whole reminding one of some popular saturnalia held in a monkish town during the middle ages.

Wade's Hist. Melrose, 1861, p. 146. 

https://www.thebookofdays.com/months/june/24.htm 

From time to time, I drop a few thoughts into the timeline as possible breadcrumbs, likely only to surface at Senate confirmation (or impeachment) hearings.  There is a way of reading the occasionally spectacular adversities of many years as a means of steering my work, possibly towards government work of a confidential nature.  (This is not as outlandish as it might seem; I could a tale unfold.)  Even if the dystopan nudge-nightmare were to be the case, though, I think I would be permitted to record a brief minute noting the fact that I haven't ever agreed to do such things, and would likely never agree to do such things.  (Having seen what doing such things can do.)   Onward.

Interesting Mass at the cathedral.  English-language cancelled, so I went to an earlier one.  Tried to time it for the Mass of the Faithful, as the readings and homily would have been lost on me.  Small, grizzled old man at the door apparently thought I was a gawking tourist and tried to physically grab me as I went in.  Kept walking, saying I was there for Mass (in Croatian and Latin).  In both the Croatian diaspora and Hungary, I've encountered a fair amount of such things.  In this city, the church bells peal loudly, but the church doors are frequently bolted.  War-weariness, perhaps.

Interesting free concert of local music scheduled in town tonight, but 9PM on a Sunday.  I wonder if there might be some unconscious cultural habit of staging culturally meaningful events at times when the German and Austrian ambassadors would be certain to send their regrets.  

American kitsch piece scheduled at the national theatre, Almost certainly going to give it a miss.  

I get the sense that things are going just slightly -- but sufficiently -- askew.  Perhaps a trick of the mind.

Beautful weather, though.

Oddly there seems to be a push locally for 1950's-style blue laws.  The malls and groceries closed on Sunday.  (The orthodox coastal bit of the old Republic to the south does the same).  It's odd, though.  Why would a largely Muslim city absolutely reliant on the tourist industry close up shop on a Sunday?  (Though all the tourist things appear to be open -- it's just the malls and proper groceries and most of the retail shops, apparently.)  Not that inconvenient -- the western cheap coffee places are still open, so I can get out of the rooms for a bit, and I generally do the grocery shopping on weekdays to avoid the crowds.

Curiouser and curiouser.  Gently down the stream -- inshallah. 

  

 

The lacuna in the Levant is not necessarily good news for peace.  Things tend to stop and go off the public radar for a bit when the largest wheels are turning.  There was an odd silence between events in Sarajevo and the beginning of hostilities in ww1.  I read a Whitehall memoir once that talked about how even foreign office civil servants thought that the lull meant that peace had a chance.  

The democracy putting highly mercurial people in charge in order to make a political point would seem to raise a fundamental problem for democratic republics.  #notexpert #wiseacring

Ballet.  ($5, back balcony.)  Quite good.  Carmen, which is sort of a local cultural touchstone, and a Bolero.  The ballet here is very much of the place.  Lyric, modern-oriented.  Not the classical lyric of Mariinski or the austere abstract of NYCB, but a half modern/half classical vocabulary, very good at storytelling.  Extended critical piece TK, God willin' & the crick don't rise. 

 Part of my reaching back to 19th c. philosophy and fiction is looking for a grounding in a way of thinking that was current before the modern, the sense of going along with things even if you didn't precisely understand what they were, came over the world.  The latter, which came to ascendancy after the second world war, has its antecedents in idealist/pragmatist philosophy, and has much to do with industrialization.  Even our unthinkingess is historical in nature, if you think about it.

What makes this essential, rather than capricious, is my particular situation.  I've been through these things, and I've been to these places, and I know that much about them is false.  It is simply a mistake to go along with these sorts of things even if you don't precisely understand them, and the present order of things seems to rely on some fraction of the population doing just that, and the rest proving manageable.  

My slate is not clean.  It has valuable inscriptions on it.  Not quixotic, but Socratic. Onward.

 #bookmarking 

https://www.ejiltalk.org/is-israels-use-of-force-against-iran-justified-by-self-defence/ 

https://lieber.westpoint.edu/select-ihl--arising-israel-iran-conflict/ 

https://www.justsecurity.org/114641/israel-iran-un-charter-jus-ad-bellum/ 

https://lieber.westpoint.edu/israels-operation-rising-lion-right-of-self-defense/ 

https://legal.un.org/repertory/art2/english/rep_supp10_vol1_art2_4.pdf

https://legal.un.org/repertory/art2/english/rep_supp9_vol1_art2_4.pdf 

 

Kefir ($1.85) and a biography of Christian Wolff on the rooftop cafe of the grocery, before buying the week's potatoes, rice, etc.  Having a notion of what Kant had to work with at the beginning is proving very useful in understanding the directions things took.  Not annotating -- the annotation pace has slowed so much that I'm going to just read a few to get back up to speed.  

The thing that I shall miss the most about being circumstanced out of the theatre festival in Transylvania this year is the Noh troupe.  Extraordinarily worthwhile.

The attraction to Japanese ritual and contemplative forms might be historically and culturally inflected.  In the late 19th c. many Slavic immigrants had just come over to the Midwest, and Japan had prevailed in a stunning triumph over Russe.  So there was a fascination among the eastern elites (e.g., Teddy Roosevelt) with Japanese culture, and this perhaps became a cultural force, perhaps displacing or preempting the Eastern forms that had reached the US by going west, instead of east.  Just a notion, but the outlines of the facts seem to correspond. Far and few are the ikonostases and Holy Doors in the Midwest.  In fairness, even the Roman church was explicitly equated with the Hindu pantheon in the correspondence of the Framers.  A protestant nation at founding, but a permissive one (hence Baltimore).

But for whatever reason, the eastern forms do stand in my mind for the necessary focus and mediation that keeps a traveller on his path in summer heat and winter cold. 

 I'm beginning to realize that the most dangerous misreading of the present American politics might be that the obvious difficulties are somehow an exception existing only at the top.  The nature of the shining city on the hill is that its characteristic nature is evident to every passerby.  And whether from admiration or from scapegoating, the present difficulties in leadership seem to point to some characteristic sins.

 


Aha.  The German pharmacy chain comes through with reasonably priced muesli and oats.  Was almost reconciled to a time of sweetened corn flakes.  Not to mention the store-brand toilet requisites.  Inexpensive German dry goods and good brushes (tooth, clothes, bath, shoes) can help one go far.

 https://www.congress.gov/congressional-record/volume-171/issue-104/senate-section/article/S3411-1

Vis a vis the conduct of foreign affairs, someone might want to point out to the present chief executive that some of these Gordian knots are structural and load-bearing.

Minor Verdi (Attila) at the city's national theatre.  ($5, deep balcony) Excellent programming choice, apparently the full symphony orchestra in the pit, capable soli, large chorus.  The sort of country-house stand-and-deliver Verdi that you might have heard at the beginning of the last century in a regional Italian house in a city of decent size, which is to say, a far more worthwhile evening than you'd probably have at one of the international houses with everything over-designed and planned.  The essence of Verdi.  Much like Shakespeare, it is the psycho-physical condition of the singers, demonstrating the revolutionary practice of freedom.  Some clear local meanings in the staging, to be developed at too much length in a proper reflection TK.

Modalisms and modernity.  Perhaps not unconnected, the point of the latter being that there are deeper currents of being made accessible by simply going along with what seems to be important at the time.  As opposed to living within the already-understood.  Being cool, not all doctrinal, which is to say living within experience, and not experience as divided and structured by words.

And yet, acting according to the spontaneous prompting of the mind and what seems good to the others--there are some obvious dangers to this.  There are many things that can make us think things.

The local church is war-weary.  Perhaps the same war-weariness is also in the Orthodox and Muslim places of prayer.  At the Sanctus at the English Mass, the entire congregation stared silently, and it seemed, sullenly, at the violinist intoning the melody.  Eventually a few voices murmured something corresponding to the text.

 I'm not a fan of the English Masses in this part of the world generally.  Functionally, it's useful as a sort of lingua franca Mass, but a traveller shouldn't expect a Mass in their own language; a (novus ordo/modern) Latin rite would do just as well for diplomats, travellers, and foreign workers.  Perhaps the reason why the Masses  were Latin in the first place.  If you know the liturgy well enough, and have the readings, the only longeurs are in the homily, and studying the decorations of the church can easily substitute for listening to the meditations.

The point is the spiritual exercise, the focusing of the mind, the meditation, and the meaningful act.  And it seems no one's doing any of these things anymore.  In American suburbia, they're worshipping their lawns, in the cities, they're playing to the televisions, and abroad, most seem just to be looking to participate in a social event.  Omnis homo mendax.  But one honors the obligation.  Harrumph, etc.

 Oddly soul-less Beethoven's Ninth from Warsaw to close the season.  Like a waterfall of flower petals rather than water itself.  Beethoven without the political danger.  Speed, when it finally came, without passion or fear.  Perhaps deliberately created as a consumer good of comfort. 

Still, though, the ability to just eavesdrop upon a major ensemble playing the Ninth as a matter of course is a good thing.  There must be a better way to get all of the remarkable things going on in the world at any given moment to the attention of more people. So much of the present media mindset was created by bursts of transmission over the air at set times to those in reach of the transmission.  The internet is fundamentally a different thing.

I tend not to write and think about foreign wars, as it's generally not my business, even though the hard-won doctrines of neutrality seem to have slipped away in the last few years.  I doubt that there will be the equivalent of the Alabama settlement after the dust settles in Europe, for example.  (Interestingly, the U.K, as a dominant naval power, always sidestepped the 19th c. neutrality conventions.)  The events of the last few days or so in the Levant are troubling.  Going after general command and control seems to signal an all-out war.  I don't think a conflict can get more across-the-board than that.  These are not proportional attacks in pursuit of declared objectives, nor are they claimed to be.  Which is why I'm puzzled that the news seems to treat it as the sort of one-off strikes that happen from time to time.  Hold on to your... whatever it is that you think that you should grab onto.  #notexpert #justwiseacring

 Muesli has gone up by 33% since my last visit.  Mores, tempore, &c.  Will have to check the German drugstore, but the new version seems to be the prevailing price.  Backup plan: corn flakes and boiled apples.

Back in the city of the Jedi Council.  Interesting trip.  En route, stopped off in the capital of the old Republic to make the pilgrimage that was blocked earlier, as the national church had been celebrating a pontifical liturgy when I arrived, and wanted only those of that nationality inside the building at the time.  No matter.  Some odd dreams in the interval.  An interesting visit to a favorite city.  But traveling by bus in summer does have its peculiar difficulties.  Must find a magic carpet or something.

The rooms here are a bit pricier than the usual budget for these travels would allow.  Some financial shenanigans forced me to book relatively last-minute, off the price curve.   Had wanted to return to the theatre festival in Transylvania this month, but all of the places in the old Saxon capital were outside of the budget.  As it turns out, with the last minute booking, what I'm paying now would have put me in range of a cheap set of rooms timely booked there, so that's a mite frustrating.  But he moves in mysterious ways his wonders to perform.  Mainly arm-wrestling the invisible hand of the markets, it seems.

Hoping for a productive month.  It is familiar territory.  Hopefully the shadow of war in the Western Balkans will recede once all involved realize that everyone else in the world is panicking over trade routes and there's very little support for vindicating claims of ethnic right.  A peculiar world.  For my part, I just read philosophy and visit the theatres.

 Racine's Berenice, apparently a new production at the Comedie Francaise, at the national theatre here as part of a festival/conference -- back row, top balcony, $10.  Closed my eyes and listened to the Alexandrines for most of it; cast quite skillful.  Interesting characters in the top balcony.  At the end, I might have been the only one in the house standing to applaud, but I was right.


 

La Gioconda at the opera house.  Upper balcony side, about as far from the plane of the plaster line as the conductor was.  ($5.67 via half-price site.)  Consciously summoning up memories of the visit and performance here as an undergraduate.  After that visit, the theatre of this city stood for a certain thing in my mind for a very long time, and I tried, with modest success, to inhabit that idyll.  I suppose you can't go unheimlich again.  But a very powerful evening.

 Oddly, as I stood up at the end, I realized that what had seemed to be a robust zipper on the jeans had somehow given out completely.  Luckily, simply buttoning the coat solved the problem.  Always wear a coat of decent length.  

Interesting that it's on the feast of Barnabas ('Barnaba' is the Inquisition spy.)  Possibly a noticed holiday in these parts--traditionally the midsummer day in old style dating. 

Under no illusions as to the character of the environs.  Though I've stumbled into a reasonably comfortable place for the several days I'm here, this is still the most commercial, class-conscious, and ruthless city on the itinerary.  Sometimes you need to take the low path through the old city.  Though I didn't have any choice in making the interstitial jaunt, I'm hoping to make the best of it.  It does bring some shadows into the mind, but the dawn runs are easier here than in sleepy Transylvania, and much more than the other place before but one.  

The immediate  environs are the biosphere of the Euro-jaunters, which I find a bit frightening, tbh.  But on the periphery, the familiar chain coffee stores where I can sit for a bit with a book.  And the museums and theatres are very reasonably priced, if you're willing to take the most distant seats in the house.  Which has been my course for lo these many years.  A habitual resident of the heavens. 

Adventures in foreign grocery guesswork, cont'd: if the fresh yeast looks like butter, arguably it shouldn't be stored with the butter.  ($0.57)  My error, though--should have recognized the Serbo-Croat word on the alternate labeling. 

Interesting aside in one of the Frederick Forsyth obits in the Times.  He was struck by the women of Budapest.  There is a certain vibe amongst the folks of both genders here.  Perhaps centuries ago, a people from the east found good farmland and an especially defensible and auspicious bend in the great river, and decided to settle down and milk the happiness of the earth.  And the culture does still seem to have the fruitful-and-multiply stance about it.  At least in the capital.  The outer districts are likely entirely populated by unshaven Kraznahorkian madmen living in castles of dirty, discarded styrofoam construction paneling on the windswept heath, staring listlessly at the groundhogs.  

Aside from travels in university days, one of my first encounters with the place was a bobbled bus transfer -- as the stops hadn't been announced, and I didn't know that there were two stations in town, and it was the middle of the night, I got off the bus and realized my mistake as the bus pulled away.  Looking around, I saw a subway station (above ground) nearby and decided that there must be a map there.  I walked over, and just as I arrived, what turned out to be the last train of the evening arrived, and I got on, although I hadn't yet got to the map on the platform.  As it turned out, it was going precisely where I needed to go.  I stacked my bags on the seat opposite, and as I did so, a young woman with long dark hair and a long flowing skirt, seemingly the genius of the place herself, waked past and smiled.

It takes the power of decision to decide to milk what joy you can from the earth, and though I've never seen eye to eye with the Epicureans, the stance that sets itself to live in such a manner does has some faint tincture of Eden to it. 

One of the difficulties in (finally being able to start to make a return to) the Jedi dojo is that folks tend to think that it is a message to them.  Another consequence of the triumph of pragmatism.  But disciple isn't a demonstration of virtue; it wants nothing to do with the observer.  It's not a message, at least not a message from me, and if it's a message from someone else, I have nothing to do with either the sender or the recipient.  The original meaning of virtue is strength.  The shining city on the hill was not built, and does not function, in order to send messages by semaphore or flashing lights.  What this age misses is the reality of the thing itself.  

Aha, pasta paprikash.  

 Apparently, the thing in the tube wasn't tomato paste.  Will have to see how it tastes with the pasta. #adventuresinforeigngroceries.

 One thing to be wary of: dissipation.  Not in the wastrel sense, but in the reaching-towards-everything-at-once sense.  The world has meaning for us only when the shapes on the outside are as clear and distinct as the shapes on the inside.  Having nothing better at hand, we think using ourselves.

 Two productions I've seen recently, the Cyrano at JDP and the Hamlet at the Hungarian theatre in Cluj seem to underscore the danger of staging the Western canon according to the pop-culture view of the West.  The 80's glam-rock vibe of the former, and the unfortunate cage-brawl duel at the end of the latter seem taken from television and film, rather than a consciousness of the source culture.  I mean, you wouldn't stage a Noh piece with a manga vibe, or conduct a Beethoven based on the late 1990s MIDI versions on the web.  

 In fairness, many if most directors stateside would do the same thing.  Tempore, mores, etc.  But Hamlet or Cyrano being unable to speak to the folks who are perched a bit precariously between East and West (as, I suppose, technically, every spot on earth is) is a loss all around.

 Also: colloquial English versions of the verse on the supertitles (text is the famously peculiar Hungarian adaptation from the 19th c., I think) are supremely disconcerting to those who know the plays. I find myself closing my eyes, so I can think through the actual structure of the text (which, in fairness is possibly not available to the actors in the adaptation).

That said, the Hamlet there is worthwhile.  I saw it three times this year, taking careful notes each time.  (tickets a bit pricier than the usual Balkans budget, but still under $15).  Mulling a longer piece on it.  Not for any audience, just to think through a few things. 

I worked several times with a great Czech scenographer whose talk-back schtick was to ask people to raise their hands if they (a) liked the play, (b) disliked the play, or (c) had no opinion about the play.  He would then scan the room after (c) (quite a large percentage, always), and hang his head and say, "Now that frightens me." 

Perhaps the reason that I kept coming back was the discovery that the odd building I ran past before dawn every weekday in the winter a year ago had staged a Hamlet.  And I became very curious about what that might be.  It's a bit personal, and a full explanation of my interest (amply rewarded) will have to wait for that longer piece.

Living in a condition of life similar to that of Indiana Jones without becoming as reductionist and cliched as Indiana Jones is a bit of a challenge sometimes.  Imagine Proust attempting to go around the world in eighty days.  The task is Wellsian, so the story must be according to the terms of H.G.

Incidentally, those Spielberg films are parables of American spirituality.  Ark and Grail, obviously, but also Eastern spirituality (Temple of Doom), esoteric faiths, and sci-fi parables in a spiritual context.  Essentially, what happens when the older notions of religion play out against an American ontological context.  And "Indiana" stands for the new world, the discovered place; his dislike for the name comes from the fact that the name was used in a derogatory sense against the people who lived there originally.

Perhaps. 

#saturdayradio  BBC adaptation of Priestley's Good Companions.  Priestley is a real touchstone for me.  Like Fowles, he managed to smuggle a few worthwhile things into mass-market printings.  A novel is always about the experience of a single person within time, divided among the characters, and therefore analogous to the act of creating the novel.  But this is only an analogy.  The point of the work is to say that this is the experience of a single soul.

I try to avoid the news--entertainment of the present national politics, but in a more abstract sense, when you sense the falseness of things at the center, which is necessarily a function of ideas, perhaps there is some concern that things closer to you, which necessarily tend more to the empirical and mimetic, might similarly seem to be tending to the false, if they were to be subjected to the scrutiny of ideas.

 When you encounter a foreign culture, whatever its nature, as you perceive its limits and dimensions, you are seeing that of your own nature which is invisible to you, transposed.

 On second thought, it's no error of the Beeb to keep close that which is their own.  Probably a weakness on my part to have drawn from the public trough during the rest of the weekend.  It was useful when I was in dicey circumstances (not in the constitutional sense), but there's no reason to tap into the matrix first thing on the day of rest when there's a sound cabin and library.  Independency.

 "An elite and highly trained US border patrol team had recently joined the search."

Arkansas.

https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2025/jun/06/arkansas-devil-in-the-ozarks-caught 

 The Saxe-Coburg Marconi machine, sub nom. BBC Radio 3/4 seems to have restructured their web access with an eye to increasing revenue.  Puts the kibosh on News Quiz and In Our Time with Saturday brunch.  Basically, what the OED did a few years ago -- increased departmental revenue at the cost of global influence.  Speaking commercials to the nations.

 New Sabbath-day brunch possible standby:

 


 Politics stateside turning into a bit of a soap opera, which is occasionally the sign of a more general condition of things.  No particular knowledge, but it's struck me on more than one occasion that the point of modern wars and policy battles is to, like the canny dons at a college meeting, maneuver the debate so that their faction leads both sides of the question. 

Admin tasks until 2AM, so again no AM run.  Clearly vis-a-vis the testing of voices, the impulse that I had at the February nadir to the south to hie to the simplicity of the mountains of Bulgaria was a good one. Bright side, my stubbornness brought some interesting evenings at the theatre in Belgrade and here. The task is in the books -- though watching other people do theatre can help with that.

Interesting, the FCO has put out traveller advisories across the Balkans advising travellers of stiff penalties for unauthorized substances, and noting that airports have machines of extraordinary sensitivity.  I never touch the stuff, but I had an interesting experience in London a few years ago.  It's a little-known fact that you can take an outside path between the two terminals, instead of the monorail.  I took the meadow path, as it was a beautiful day, and I didn't want to miss the chance to walk on English soil.  As it turns out, it was also the de facto break area for the airport employees, who were smoking a peace pipe or two near the path.  After just walking past them, I got a dismissive sneer from the elderly lady using the electronic wand to sweep the luggage in the second terminal.  But I did get a buttercup out of it, so still a win over the monorail.